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The is one of my favourite museums in Paris and is really worth visiting for so many reasons.First of all the museum is located on top of the Butte in a peaceful cobbled street so typical of Montmartre, the ‘rue Cortot’. And although Montmartre may be the most touristic area of Paris this street and the museum itself remain rather off the beaten track and not too crowdy. Musee de Montmartre – Rue Cortot – ParisSecondly the permanent collections are exhibited in a beautiful house which is the oldest house in Montmartre.
It was built in the middle of the 17th century and fully renovated in 1959. It is a four-storey building offering a succession of charming rooms with apparent oak beams and terracotta floor tiles and vista of the gardens from every window. The works exhibited tell the history of Montmartre. One can see paintings of landscapes of the Butte in the 19th century, covered with gardens, vineyard and windmills; or souvenirs of the cabarets whose history cannot be separated from the one of Montmartre: Le Chat Noir, Le Lapin Agile or Le Moulin Rouge.
Musee de Montmartre – Path leading to the wild part of the gardensAt the back of the museum the gardens are much wilder and the atmosphere totally different. One gets lost into the groves walking down a path through flowers and trees; one can sit down on a stump and enjoy dreaming or reading.
Further on the right one notices a couple of hives hidden in the old wood of ‘8 rue Cortot’ which is today an ecological reserve of the City of Paris planted with trees and where only cats have access.The path comes out onto the vineyard of Montmartre: 1762 vines of 27 grape varieties, mainly Gamay, have been planted and allow to produce a light red wine, the ‘Clos Montmartre’. The view onto the vineyard and the small houses below including the cabaret ‘Le Lapin Agile’ is amazing. It reminds the old Montmartre and offers a striking contrast with the recent buildings of northern Paris in the background. One stay there and contemplates past and present, countryside and urbanization. A new spot dedicated to the famous Swiss sculptor Alberto Giacometti (1901-1966) has just opened in Paris. It is called: L’institut Giacometti and it is not one more museum but a completely different place which enables to be admitted into the artist’s private life.
One thought one knew everything about the sculptor whose works are so familiar. By visiting l’ one realizes that one still has a lot to learn: a true delight! An Art Deco Private mansion in MontparnasseThe building chosen to welcome the Institute used to be the house of the French decorator Paul Follot (1877-1941) and is a superb listed monument. It has been beautifully renovated, the interior design and the Art Deco period decorations are outstanding: panelling, furniture, fireplaces, stained-glass windows, tiled floors. Institut Giacometti-Paris-the table in the studioSuch a close and intimate relationship with the artist is really unique and is part of what makes the Institute a must-visit! The exhibition of never seen sculpturesThe seventy artworks exhibited in the reconstruction of Giacometti’s studio had never been shown before. Some other masterpieces are exhibited for the first time by the Institute in the various rooms of the house.
My favourite is the group of the Women of Venice (painted plaster 1956), remarkably exhibited in the library on the first floor: so moving! Institut Giacometti-Paris-Women of Venice 1956I also like the Cage, which evokes the space of a room with a man and a woman whose spread arms suggest the opening of a curtain giving access to a world of pleasure. Not easy to photograph I let you discover it during your visit!Here are some other works. Institut Giacometti-Paris-Portrait of Jean GenetSeveral temporary exhibitions will take place there all along the year. All of them will aim to come close to the life and work of Giacometti through another eye.
The first one: ‘Giacometti’s studio as seen by Jean Genet’ makes the sculptor and the writer converse together. The interaction between both artists is beautifully depicted through their respective works. One can sit next to the fireplace and listen to Jean Genet reading his text, the Giacometti’s studio. And one can admire the beautiful Portrait of Jean Genet painted by the sculptor. Some photographs and videos show the friendship between the two men. Institut Giacometti-Paris-View from outsideI highly recommend you the visit of this elegant and cozy place.
As told before it is not a museum and one cannot buy tickets on the premises. One has to book in advance on the website of the Institute and choose a time of visit. Only 40 visitors are allowed per time slot, which reinforces the feeling of privacy and closeness to the artist. I love it!Practical information: – 5 rue Victor-Schoelcher 75014 – Exhibition ‘L’atelier d’Alberto Giacometti vu par Jean Genet’ – Until 16 September 2018 – 10am-5pm –Christine Bokobza – Good Morning Paris The Blog –.
The Metro station Mirabeau on line 10 is a unique and surprising station in Paris. As two other Parisian stations it has a single platform. But the reason why is not the same: it is due to the fact that only the trains towards Gare d’Austerlitz stop at this station. In the opposite direction -Boulogne- there is no stop at Mirabeau but at Eglise d’Auteuil, 200 meters further.When one is waiting for a train on the platform towards Gare d’Austerlitz, one has the surprise to see the trains going by in the opposite direction without stopping as if they were about to fly! Indeed the track is greatly inclined as the railway tunnel eastwards is much deeper because it goes under the Seine.One can also have a ride in a train towards Boulogne and sit in the first carriage.
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The crossing of the station Mirabeau without stopping is really impressive, especially when the train enters the tunnel at the end of the slope: Do not miss it! The metro line 10 is the less crowded in Paris – except during Roland-Garros tournament- and one can travel to Boulogne and back being seated.Back to earth: The Pont Mirabeau of course, made famous by Guillaume Apollinaire; but also the beautiful Eglise d’Auteuil built in a Roman-Byzantine style. And above all I recommend you to have a walk through the streets and alleys of the former Village of Auteuil: its private houses and Art Deco buildings are really worth the visit! Enjoy!Christine Bokobza – Good Morning Paris The Blog –Practical information: Website of the.